we will go over each mode and further explain what it’s is good for and when to use it.

Tip: as you shoot in each mode the aperture, shutter, and iso with change automatically according to lighting conditions. if you make a note of the these settings, it will make it easier when shooting in the creative and manual modes.

Portrait The (Portrait) mode blurs the background (shallow depth of field) to make the human subject stand out. It also makes flesh tones and the hair look softer than with the (Full Auto) mode.   Shooting Tips The further the distance between the subject and background, the better. The further the distance between the subject and background, the more blurred the background will look. The subject will also stand out better in front of a plain, dark background. Use a telephoto lens. If you have a zoom lens, use the telephoto end to fill the frame with the subject from the waist up. Move in closer if necessary. Focus the face. Check that the AF point covering the face flashes in red.

Landscape Use the (Landscape) mode for wide scenery, night scenes, and to have everything in focus from near to far (wide depth of field). The greens and blues also become more vivid and sharp than with (Full Auto).   Shooting Tips With a zoom lens, use the wide-angle end. When using a zoom lens, use the wide-angle end. This will have objects near and far in focus, better than at the telephoto end. It also adds breadth to landscapes. Shooting night scenes. Since the built-in flash will be disabled, this mode is also good for night scenes. For night scenes, use a tripod to prevent camera shake. If you want to photograph a person against a night scene, set the Mode Dial to <> and use a tripod.

Close- Up When you want to photograph flowers or small things up close, use the (Close-up) mode. To make small things appear much larger, use a macro lens.   Shooting Tips Use a simple background. A simple background makes the flower, etc., stand out better. Move to the subject as close as possible. Check the lens for its minimum focusing distance. Some lenses have indications such as <40.28m/0.9ft>. The lens minimum focusing distance is measured from the (focal plane) mark on the camera to the subject. If you are too close to the subject, the focus confirmation light will blink. Under low light, the built-in flash will fire. If you are too close to the subject and the bottom of the picture looks dark, move away from the subject. With a zoom lens, use the telephoto end. If you have a zoom lens, using the telephoto end will make the subject look larger. Shooting Tips

Sports To photograph a moving subject whether it be a child running or an auto race, use the (Sports) mode. this mode is focused on shutter priority and AI Servo focusing mode.   Shooting Tips Use a telephoto lens. Using a telephoto lens is recommended so you can shoot from afar. Use the center AF point to focus. Aim the center AF point over the subject, then press the shutter button halfway to auto focus. During autofocusing, the beeper will continue beeping softly. If focus cannot be achieved, the focus confirmation light will blink. When you want to take the picture, press the shutter button completely. While holding down the shutter button, continuous shooting (max. approx. 6.5 shots per sec.) and autofocusing will take effect.

Night Portrait To shoot someone at night and obtain a natural-looking exposure in the background, use the (Night Portrait) mode. Using a flash is highly reconmend (580IIEX, 430IIEX, 220EX)   Shooting Tips Use a wide-angle lens and a tripod. If you use a zoom lens, set it to the wide-angle end to obtain a wide night view. Use a tripod to prevent camera shake. Keep the person within 5 meters/16.4 feet from the camera. Under low light, the built-in flash will fire automatically to obtain a good exposure of the person. The effective distance of the built-in flash is 5 meters/16.4 feet from the camera. Shoot also with (Full Auto). Since camera shake is prone to occur with night shots, shooting also with (Full Auto) is recommended.

Flash off In places where flash photography is prohibited, use the (Flash Off) mode. This mode is also effective for candlelight scenes when you want to obtain the candlelight effect.   Shooting Tips If the numeric display in the viewfinder blinks, take care to prevent camera shake. Under low light when camera shake is prone to occur, the viewfinder’s shutter speed display will blink. Hold the camera steady or use a tripod. If you have a zoom lens, use the wide-angle end to reduce blur due to camera shake. Taking portraits without flash. Under low light, the person must not move until the picture is taken. If the person moves during the exposure, he or she might look blurred in the picture. Shooting Tips

If you are reading this, you should have a camera and ready to go out and make beautiful images. Where do you start? if you have no experience with a camera, except with a point shoot, turn the dial on the top of the camera with all the little icons. line up the green square with the white square on the side of the dial. this is what is called the automatic mode.

This mode is not the best mode to shoot in, but if you have any experience with shooting with manual DSLR, like aperture, shutter speeds, white balance and ISO. The automatic mode is a safe setting to guarantee you won’t get a bad exposure. When you are ready to take a shot press down the shutter button half way, this will allow the camera to auto focus on your subject, you will see the little squares in the viewfinder light up red. this means that the camera is focused on these points in the photo. From here, the camera will automatically adjust using the built in light metering system and adjust all the setting accordingly. Continue to press the shutter down completely and abracadabra! you have taken your first digital image.

just a little warning, when shooting in the green square mode, it’s not very flexible. while shooting in the automatic mode, settings are locked and preset. For example, If there is not enough light to take a photo, the on board flash will automatically open to correct the exposure. so if you are shooting in a dark or poorly lit places and flash photography is prohibited, be aware, you have been warned before hand.

In part 2 of shooting modes, we will cover all the other little icons and what they do.

so go out there and make some beautiful images, the more you shoot the better you will become as a photographer.

good luck and thanks for reading.

first things first, there are many cameras out there to choose from. most working professional and inspiring hobbyist use Canon or Nikon. because we shoot with canon equipment we can only review what we have and know. Nothing against Nikon but until we get a Nikon shooter on the site we wont’ be able to give any feedback, for now.

People always ask, what camera should i buy? or which one is the best? Remember that just because you have the best equipment and have all the pro gear, doesn’t mean that your images will come out like a pro. it takes more than just professional equipment and other technical knowledge and skills to deliver professional grade images. Don’t worry so much about what camera to choose, because the bottom line is the person that is holding the camera.

Listed are some basic guidelines of positive and negative features to look out for so that no matter what new cameras come out in the future, that you will be able to make the right decision to purchase the right camera for your budget, workflow and your needs.

*all descriptions of camera’s are from Canon USA website

G9 (point and shoot)
Price: $480.00

• 12.1 Megapixels (1/1.7” sensor) with RAW mode for maximum image control
• 6x optical zoom lens with optical Image Stabilizer and SR coating
• Face Detection AF/AE/FE and Red-Eye Correction in playback
• 3.0” high-resolution, PureColor LCD II with extra wide viewing angle
• 25 shooting modes including full manual control and 2 custom settings
• Extra telephoto reach with Digital Tele-Converter and Safety Zoom
• Hot shoe support for Canon Speedlite flashes and optional lens accessories
• Slightly larger sensor (1/1.7 as opposed to 1/1.8 inch)
• Enhanced Face Detection technology
• Compatibility with ST-E2 wireless flash transmitter

Negative:
Smaller sensor 1.7 crop factor and limited range of lenses,  not a DSLR

Positives:
affordable at under $500.00, small and compact. 12 megapixels able to shoot in Raw format with full manual settings

Rebel XSi
Price: $ 799.00

For stunning photography with point-and-shoot ease, look no further than Canon’s EOS Rebel XSi. The EOS Rebel XSi brings staggering technological innovation to the masses. It features Canon’s EOS Integrated Cleaning System, Live View Function, a powerful DIGIC III Image Processor, plus a new 12.2-megapixel CMOS Sensor and is available in a kit with the new EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens with Optical Image Stabilizer. The EOS Rebel XSi’s refined, ergonomic design includes a new 3.0-inch LCD monitor, compatibility with SD and SDHC Memory cards and new accessories that enhance every aspect of the photographic experience.

Negative:
Smaller sensor 1.6 crop factor, slow fps 3.5 not so good for sports.

Positives:
affordable at under $1000.00, a good entry level camera.

40D Canon10.1MP Digital SLR Camera (Body Only) BUY NOW

Price: $1099.00 (body only)

Welcome to the next generation of digital SLR photography-the Canon EOS 40D. The EOS 40D combines Canon’s tremendous know-how in both the digital and photographic worlds, creating a camera that not only does everything one would expect of a traditional digital SLR, but one that incorporates staggering leaps forward in technological innovation. With new features like Canon’s EOS Integrated Cleaning System, Live View Function, a more powerful DIGIC III Image Processor, plus a 10.1-megapixel CMOS sensor, a 3.0-inch LCD monitor and more, the EOS 40D elevates digital photography to new heights, enhancing the shooting experience, and delivering images one could only expect from a Canon.

Sensor “10.1 million effective pixels

Image sizes ” • 3888 x 2592 • 2816 x 1880 • 1936 x 1288″

RAW files CR2 format, 14-bit • RAW full resolution  sRAW (2.5 MP)

Image processor DIGIC III

Dust reduction High speed vibration of filter

High-speed continuous “6.5 fps  Up to 75 JPEG Large/Fine images”

Dimensions 146 x 108 x 74 mm(5.7 x 4.2 x 2.9 in)

Negative:
Smaller sensor 1.6 crop factor, but good if using a telephoto lens.

Positives:
good price point at around $1000.00, a good entry level camera, semi prosumer. this camera is worth the most bang for the buck, the middle of the road in the Canon lineup.

Mark II 5D 21.1MP Full Frame SLR Camera (Body Only) BUY NOW

Price: $2699.00 (body only)

Canon’s update to the wildly popular full frame EOS 5D is here, and it’s better than ever. The EOS 5D Mark II has a stunning 21.1-megapixel full-frame CMOS sensor with DIGIC 4 Image Processor, a vast ISO Range of 100-6400 (expandable to ISO L: 50, H1: 12800 and H2: 25600), plus EOS technologies like Auto Lighting Optimizer and Peripheral Illumination Correction. It supports Live View shooting, Live View HD videos, and more. It can shoot up to 3.9 fps, has 9 AF points plus 6 AF assist points, a new 98% coverage viewfinder, a 3.0-inch Clear View LCD (920,000 dots/VGA) and a rugged build. Full-frame shooters rejoice!

Max resolution     5616 x 3744

Effective pixels     21.0 million”

Continuous Drive    3.9 fps max 78 JPEG, 13 RAW

Movie Clips     1920 x1080 @ 30fps, up to 12 min, 640 x 480 @ 30fps up to 24 min

Uncompressed format    RAW, sRAW1, sRAW2

Dimensions    152 x 114 x 75 mm (6 x 4.5 x 3 in)

Negative:
slow fps 3.9 not so good for sports.

Positives:
Full frame sensor awesome with wide angle lenses, shoot HD video (1920 x 1080p) 30fps. good for wedding, portraits, and landscape photography.

Mark III Canon EOS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera (Body Only) BUY NOW

Price: $4499.00 (body only)

Canon’s flagship EOS-1D Mark III is the most advanced EOS Digital SLR ever produced. It has a new 10.1 megapixel CMOS sensor (APS-H size) with Canon’s EOS Integrated Cleaning System and a 3.0-inch LCD monitor with Canon’s Live View technology. The 1D Mark III has a redesigned 100% viewfinder, a new 45-point AF system, and can shoot up to 10 fps continuously with a maximum burst of 110 shots. Dual “DIGIC III” Image Processors work in tandem to speed up every process while refining image quality; a new, lighter body has improved weather sealing and shutter durability. Every facet of the EOS experience has been enhanced with the 1D Mark III. It’s the new standard.

Negative:
Smaller sensor 1.3 crop factor.

Positives:
Perfect for fast moving subjects and sports at 10fps, professional level body, good for all types of photography. our pick for features and functionality.

Mark III 1DS Canon EOS 21.1MP Digital SLR Camera (Body Only) BUY NOW

Price: $7999.00 (body only)

The Canon EOS-1Ds Mark III is an engineering tour de force which, true to the EOS-1 legacy, redefines the state of the art in no uncertain terms. An entirely new 21.1-megapixel full-frame Canon CMOS sensor delivers astounding image quality and creates new photographic possibilities. Dual “DIGIC III” Image Processors work in tandem to speed up data handling and camera operation, while further refining imaging performance. Tough, high-durability body and shutter designs, combined with the unique EOS Integrated Cleaning System, set new standards for professional dependability. Cutting-edge features-such as a large 3.0-inch LCD monitor with Live View Function, and a fast, precise 45-point AF system-make the EOS-1Ds Mark III powerful and versatile. And, of course, the EOS-1Ds Mark III is part of the unparalleled EOS System, which, with more than 50 EF lenses, 15 interchangeable focusing screens, and extensive wireless remote control and lighting accessories, is the most advanced and powerful digital photography system in the world

Negative:
slow 5 fps not so good for sports. no live view option.

Positives:
the flagship of the Canon lineup, quiet and well built. Hi resolution images, perfect for portrait and landscape photography.

“This is the message we have heard from him and declare to you: God is light; in him there is no darkness at all.” 1 John 1:5 don’t want to start preaching, but just like God we want you to understand how important both natural and artificial light is in photography. To create an image both on film or digital, there needs to be a light sorce. Without any light there is no way to create an image, therefore in photography terms, Light = God.

The 3 main factors that effect the the outcome of a image and how the camera reacts to light, is aperture, shutter speed and ISO. The three photography terms can be defined by the following:

Aperture is a hole or an opening through which light is admitted. More specifically, the aperture of an optical system is the opening that determines the cone angle of a bundle of rays that come to a focus in the image plane.

Shutter Speed is a common term used to discuss exposure time, the effective amount of time a shutter is open to allow expose an image.

ISO is the sensitivity of the camera sensor to light, the higher the ISO the more light that the camera sensor can read.

The three are in perfect balance, if you change one it effects the others and vice versa. so, you can’t just focus on one principle, like the “aperture” is what makes a good image. It’s a combination of all three that make a good exposure.

We will not go over in detail how each setting will effect another setting in reference
to another. For now we want to convey the importance of how each setting effects the exposure of how an image will turn out.

Mahalo for reading, happy shooting!

Aloha and welcome to thedigidarkroom.com by bradyoshiro.com.are you ready to launch your photography off the ground and make some awesome images? if your answer is “yes” your in the right place.

A small introduction about us before we go off into the wild wild west of digital photography. We have been shooting photography for the the last decade and have entered into the industry at the start of the digital revolution, where everything is digital with a world full of gadgets. We started off shooting surf photography and now shoot weddings. We have experimented in fashion, portrait, landscape and all kinds of photography along the way, enough to get into trouble. but we would have to say our strengths are in surf and wedding photography.

The whole reason we wanted to start this site, is because two friends (www.bradyoshiro.com) (www.davecollyer.com) talking shop about the latest cameras trends and how we could improve our photography. Instead of keeping it to ourselves we have decided to share some our experiences and knowledge with you.

So continue reading and start from anywhere you want as we go over the basics of photography, equipment, techniques, workflow, and wherever else this site and photography will take us.

Before you continue on, please create an account on the forum by clicking here to register this will allow to post and ask questions about each post.

Well, enough nonsense, let get started!!! Mahalo for reading and Happy Shooting!

please feel free to post comments to contribute any feedback to help or improve this site.